How Many Amps Does Arb Fridge Draw?

04-23-2016, 02:14 PM

I've been pregnant to practice some quick tests to show what the actual requirements for an ARB fridge is when installed in a vehicle, finally found a few minutes to snap some photos and bear witness what is required past these units.

Okay, here nosotros get...

This is my ARB refrigerator and my exam equipment, an Alinco power supply with ammeter:

This unit has been extremely reliable and accurate when comparing information technology to various equipment that I run off of information technology, mostly ham radio stuff and some R/C equipment.

For this test, I set up the fridge to 0�F, as you lot can see, it was at 27�F for the test, so the unit was forced to plow the compressor on. Hither's the total load:

Hither'south the voltage at specified load, ~thirteen.0VDC:

At present, to simulate a lower voltage with a load on it, I've set it to 12VDC:

At 12.1VDC (or as shut equally I could go it), here's your current draw:

Now, it will run every bit much as information technology feels it needs to run, but once information technology hits the target temp, information technology will shut downwardly completely, and drain is at 0 amps, basically just enough to keep the led display on and run its thermometer circuit.

These units will cycle on and off according to several things; ambience temp, amount of items placed in unit, target temp gear up for items and the amount of times the unit is opened. It is incommunicable to requite a "one number covers all" prediction due to these variables, merely with a general idea of current draw of no more 6 amps and having it plough on for 10 minutes per hour for cooling, you're pulling ~1Ah from your battery!

Of course, a stock battery volition not provide every bit much long-term current as a deep bike AGM battery, as it is not built for deep cycles of charge-drain-charge-bleed! This is why its recommended to upgrade the bombardment if you utilize an ARB fridge with the engine off for long periods of time. Its likewise why people run into their stock batteries are dead after a few months of this type of current drain.

I've already run mine in my vehicle over a period of 4 days without starting the vehicle once. The fridge ran for 3 full days without issue, and the fourth 24-hour interval I noticed the alarm light came on, pregnant that the battery's voltage dropped below the threshold (which was prepare to "NED" which is medium setting for the ARB units). I and so started the 4runner with no issues, and information technology did not require a jump start or battery charger to practice so. Information technology didn't fifty-fifty seem weak when it started, and because of this (and the fact that I have a jump pack with me at all times, especially if I'm going camping or wheeling), I've ready the unit to the Low setting, meaning that it tin run the bombardment down fifty-fifty lower than before! Of class, I do have an Odyssey battery in my 4runner, equally well every bit all my other vehicles, so I can run this in any of them without worrying too much about a dead bombardment.

And then, there you take it! a MAX of 6 amps when its physically running the compressor at a minimum 12 volts, that really isn't much ability consumption at all, especially when you realize that it doesn't constantly run 24/7!

My suggestions? Keep your AGM batteries topped off with a battery tender made for AGM batteries, especially if yous're heading out for a long camping calendar week or wheelin' trip.

Pack the ARB well and make certain to have information technology full, you'll have less fluctuation in temps if you have it fully packed, equally the stuff in in that location will keep the temps level and regulated.

Don't go along opening the fridge! Leave information technology shut as much equally possible to go on the cold air in!

Cease thinking that two AGM batteries and a full-on multi-battery charging circuit is necessary to run an ARB refrigerator! Unless you're in the desert for 2 or 3 days without ever starting your vehicle, and you caput out there with no mode to get a jump outset from another vehicle or a jump pack, you'll be merely fine with 1 good AGM battery and the stock charging organisation of the 4 runner!

Hard wire your 12VDC plug for the ARB directly to the battery using adept 8AWG wiring at the very least. The smaller the wire gauge, as well every bit the longer the run, the more than resistance the line will have, which equals more than current required at the fridge, and that ways you'll accept more electric current used than necessary. Good wiring will almost eliminate this issue, so do it right and non worry virtually it!

04-23-2016, 03:38 PM

Well, yes and no, actually. For 20+ anxiety @ 20A, you should run an 8AWG wire if you want to be at 3% or less in voltage driblet. I say 20A because that is what an accented maximum depict on a cig plug would be at (such every bit this type of cig jack HERE). While y'all may but utilise your plug in the back for your fridge, if you ever sell the vehicle, or if yous ever let someone use your vehicle, and they plug something in that draws more than simply the 6A required past your fridge, it would non be ideal for a 12AWG wire.

You could become away with 10AWG, but its almost the same toll to only go 8AWG wire, and its easier to just observe the right fuse holder that accepts 8AWG prissy and tight.

I use this chart for double-checking load limits on wire every now and and so, it helps to see a quick chart to confirm numbers when wiring up stuff in the vehicle.

And so, while you're absolutely correct at 6-10A, 12AWG would be merely fine, if you always plan to do anything more with it, best to just get the 8AWG wiring kits available with the fuse and connectors.

04-23-2016, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyinhawaiian01 View Post

"...Well, yes and no, actually. For twenty+ feet @ 20A, you should run an 8AWG wire if you want to exist at 3% or less in voltage drop...'

Hello flyinhawaiian01,

I am very impressed with how your theoretical skills and passion to write and pass some of this insight on to others is developing exponentially! Adept task! Rgds,

rigtec, thanks

04-23-2016, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted past flyinhawaiian01 View Post

Well, yes and no, really. For 20+ anxiety @ 20A, you should run an 8AWG wire if yous want to be at 3% or less in voltage drib. I say 20A because that is what an absolute maximum draw on a cig plug would be at (such every bit this type of cig jack HERE). While you may simply utilise your plug in the back for your fridge, if you ever sell the vehicle, or if you lot ever let someone use your vehicle, and they plug something in that draws more than than just the 6A required by your refrigerator, it would non be ideal for a 12AWG wire.

Y'all could become away with 10AWG, only its almost the aforementioned cost to just get 8AWG wire, and its easier to just find the right fuse holder that accepts 8AWG overnice and tight.

I apply this nautical chart for double-checking load limits on wire every now and so, information technology helps to come across a quick chart to confirm numbers when wiring upwardly stuff in the

So, while y'all're absolutely right at 6-10A, 12AWG would be just fine, if you ever plan to do annihilation more with it, best to just get the 8AWG wiring kits available with the fuse and connectors.

aye, and three" anti ballistic tank armor is a heluva lot stronger to apply for skid plates as well. don't use a 40lb sledge hammer where a 16 oz hammer will do the task. equally an electrician, I'm generally not in the habit of wiring things for "what if". you build things for the intended purpose - and to applicable code requirements (for voltage drib we're allowed v%, not just 3%) - considering no one is ever going to plug a 500hp motor into your average 15A household plug.

I tin can't speak to specifics in the american electric code, but table 2 in the CEC is a much better resource for checking wire ampacity that your bluesea chart

04-23-2016, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jono.ful View Post

yes, and 3" anti ballistic tank armor is a heluva lot stronger to apply for slip plates as well. don't utilize a 40lb sledge hammer where a 16 oz hammer will exercise the job. as an electrician, I'thou generally non in the habit of wiring things for "what if". you build things for the intended purpose - and to applicable lawmaking requirements (for voltage drib we're allowed 5%, not just iii%) - considering no one is e'er going to plug a 500hp motor into your boilerplate 15A household plug.

I can't speak to specifics in the american electrical code, but table 2 in the CEC is a much meliorate resource for checking wire ampacity that your bluesea chart

Well, since you're an electrician, you should know that larger cables are required for dc loads, vs. an air conditioning load. This is pretty basic electric theory here.

Every bit for your Canadian electrical code, that's based on ac, not dc loads. The marine nautical chart I posted is standard specs for dc loads, and given that you should always overbuild rather than underbuild things, especially electric, the nautical chart is quite perfect for this scenario.

Once again, yes, you lot tin can use 12AWG if you similar, it would power the 6A load but fine at 20 feet. All the same, I would rather have a little larger wire to make sure that there are no bug if I plug something in that's a bit more, say a modest air compressor or inverter!

Having said that, let'south endeavour something here...

Go ahead and summate a five% loss in voltage drop at 12.1V, which is standard resting voltage of an automotive battery. What does your voltage drop to at the plug? Yep, xi.5V, which is too low to power the ARB properly, and results in the unit shutting down because its not seeing plenty voltage. If you turn it to the LO setting for voltage sensing, you can get information technology to ability upward, but your current now shoots up to almost 8A, and that will only deplete the battery that much faster.

And then, at a 3% voltage drop with 8AWG wire, at 12.1V, your supply is at ~xi.9V, which means less current draw and a more stable voltage at the fridge.

Electrical is not something I skimp on, or exercise the accented minimum. We can contend this all day long, but the fact remains, slightly larger cables, while not absolutely necessary, are not worth the couple of dollars saved by cheapin' out.

04-23-2016, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyinhawaiian01 View Post

Well, since you're an electrician, you should know that larger cables are required for dc loads, vs. an ac load. This is pretty bones electrical theory hither.

Every bit for your Canadian electric code, that'south based on ac, not dc loads. The marine chart I posted is standard specs for dc loads, and given that you should always overbuild rather than underbuild things, peculiarly electrical, the chart is quite perfect for this scenario.

Again, yep, you tin use 12AWG if you like, it would power the 6A load merely fine at 20 feet. Still, I would rather have a fiddling larger wire to make sure that there are no problems if I plug something in that's a bit more than, say a small-scale air compressor or inverter!

Having said that, permit'southward endeavor something here...

Go ahead and calculate a 5% loss in voltage drop at 12.1V, which is standard resting voltage of an automotive battery. What does your voltage drop to at the plug? Yes, 11.5V, which is too low to power the ARB properly, and results in the unit shutting down because its not seeing enough voltage. If you lot turn it to the LO setting for voltage sensing, yous tin get information technology to power up, merely your electric current now shoots up to virtually 8A, and that will just deplete the battery that much faster.

And then, at a 3% voltage drop with 8AWG wire, at 12.1V, your supply is at ~11.9V, which ways less current describe and a more stable voltage at the fridge.

Electrical is not something I skimp on, or do the accented minimum. We can contend this all day long, but the fact remains, slightly larger cables, while not absolutely necessary, are non worth the couple of dollars saved by cheapin' out.

^^^^Yup.

04-23-2016, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted past flyinhawaiian01 View Post

Well, since you're an electrician, you should know that larger cables are required for dc loads, vs. an ac load. This is pretty basic electric theory here.

As for your Canadian electric lawmaking, that's based on air-conditioning, not dc loads. The marine chart I posted is standard specs for dc loads, and given that you should always overbuild rather than underbuild things, peculiarly electrical, the chart is quite perfect for this scenario.

Once again, aye, you can use 12AWG if you similar, it would power the 6A load just fine at 20 feet. However, I would rather have a little larger wire to make sure that in that location are no issues if I plug something in that'south a fleck more than, say a small air compressor or inverter!

Having said that, let'due south try something here...

Go alee and calculate a 5% loss in voltage drop at 12.1V, which is standard resting voltage of an automotive battery. What does your voltage drop to at the plug? Yeah, 11.5V, which is too low to power the ARB properly, and results in the unit shutting downwards because its not seeing enough voltage. If yous turn information technology to the LO setting for voltage sensing, you lot can get it to power up, but your current now shoots up to near 8A, and that will just deplete the battery that much faster.

And so, at a 3% voltage drib with 8AWG wire, at 12.1V, your supply is at ~xi.9V, which means less current depict and a more stable voltage at the refrigerator.

Electrical is not something I skimp on, or do the absolute minimum. Nosotros can argue this all 24-hour interval long, but the fact remains, slightly larger cables, while not absolutely necessary, are not worth the couple of dollars saved by cheapin' out.

You heighten adept points, I'm not disputing that. And you are certainly right, DC loads crave different calculations for some equipment in some circumstances. Do me a favour though, go out and pull the 12v in the dorsum of your truck and tell me what estimate wire is run to it. Betcha your truck information technology'south not 8awg, and information technology runs your fridge just fine. Under certain circumstances, yep that arb unit of measurement tin can pull more than 6 amps, and if you want to build your rig for admittedly every eventuality, that's your prerogative. In the long run, you admittedly will spend more than you need to to accomplish the job. And yes, that corporeality will likely be tens or peradventure hundreds, but not likely thousands. This is simply an academic give-and-take. You can build your truck how you lot see fit, and I will practise the same

04-24-2016, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jono.ful View Post

You raise good points, I'thousand not disputing that. And you are certainly right, DC loads require different calculations for some equipment in some circumstances. Do me a favour though, get out and pull the 12v in the dorsum of your truck and tell me what gauge wire is run to it. Betcha your truck information technology'southward not 8awg, and it runs your fridge just fine. Under certain circumstances, yep that arb unit of measurement can pull more than 6 amps, and if you desire to build your rig for absolutely every eventuality, that'south your prerogative. In the long run, you admittedly will spend more than you demand to to accomplish the job. And yeah, that amount will likely exist tens or mayhap hundreds, but not likely thousands. This is just an academic discussion. You can build your truck how yous run across fit, and I will do the same

Actually it won't power the fridge effectively equally several members accept run into. Toyota never intended for portable fridges to be ran from that port. I believe the approximate is xvi and information technology insufficient to run a larger fridge at full capacity. One fellow member couldn't fifty-fifty get his to cool beneath 45 degrees with the stock wiring. Once he upgraded to viii gauge wiring, the refrigerator ran fine. ARB even recommends running larger wiring direct to the port from the battery.

04-24-2016, x:23 AM

Awesome. I just purchased a NorthStar Group 31M for my 4Runner to run my ARB refrigerator.

What battery tender does anybody use to charge their AGM batteries and continue them topped off? A month ago

@Antman

gave ii Amazon links merely I tin can't find that mail at present. Care to share once more

@Antman

.

04-25-2016, 10:55 AM

I use this model:

Keyline Charger

Then far it works perfectly for all my agm batteries. I throw each vehicle on the charger every one time in a while, moreso the '87 truck since I rarely drive the garage queen.

Doesn't take much to charge them up either. I usually throw a bombardment on the charger on a fri afternoon, and earlier the wife leaves for piece of work on Monday, I pull information technology off. That's usually skilful for a month or two before I feel the need to do it again.

Been doing this with all of my agm batteries for the past 16 years, I finally had my last Optima xanthous top die on me about 8 months ago, that was the first yellow top I bought back in 2000, so I got more than my coin's worth out of that bombardment!

04-25-2016, 02:19 PM

i don't sympathize why anyone would go through the attempt for this merely use 12ga.

it makes sense for a manufacturer to non overbuild things because only cents per vehicle adds upward to real numbers, but for a single possessor doing a vehicle mod doing the bare minimum doesn't make sense when just a few more bucks buys you flexibility

04-27-2016, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigger View Post

Really it won't power the fridge effectively as several members have encounter. Toyota never intended for portable fridges to be ran from that port. I believe the gauge is 16 and it bereft to run a larger fridge at full capacity. 1 member couldn't fifty-fifty get his to cool below 45 degrees with the stock wiring. Once he upgraded to 8 judge wiring, the fridge ran fine. ARB even recommends running larger wiring directly to the port from the battery.

You lot might be talking about me here, and whether you are or not, this is precisely my experience. The stock 12v port is simply ineffective. Had I been unable or unwilling to run the wires for a new port I would take returned the fridge. The 8 gauge wire straight to the battery made all the difference in the earth. And is what ARB recommends.

04-23-2016, 02:14 PM	#1

Senior Member	ARB Refrigerator ability requirements, hither'due south the numbers for yous! I've been pregnant to practice some quick tests to show what the actual requirements for an ARB fridge is when installed in a vehicle, finally found a few minutes to snap some photos and bear witness what is required past these units. Okay, here nosotros get... This is my ARB refrigerator and my exam equipment, an Alinco power supply with ammeter: This unit has been extremely reliable and accurate when comparing information technology to various equipment that I run off of information technology, mostly ham radio stuff and some R/C equipment. For this test, I set up the fridge to 0�F, as you lot can see, it was at 27�F for the test, so the unit was forced to plow the compressor on. Hither's the total load: Hither'south the voltage at specified load, ~thirteen.0VDC: At present, to simulate a lower voltage with a load on it, I've set it to 12VDC: At 12.1VDC (or as shut equally I could go it), here's your current draw: Now, it will run every bit much as information technology feels it needs to run, but once information technology hits the target temp, information technology will shut downwardly completely, and drain is at 0 amps, basically just enough to keep the led display on and run its thermometer circuit. These units will cycle on and off according to several things; ambience temp, amount of items placed in unit, target temp gear up for items and the amount of times the unit is opened. It is incommunicable to requite a "one number covers all" prediction due to these variables, merely with a general idea of current draw of no more 6 amps and having it plough on for 10 minutes per hour for cooling, you're pulling ~1Ah from your battery! Of course, a stock battery volition not provide every bit much long-term current as a deep bike AGM battery, as it is not built for deep cycles of charge-drain-charge-bleed! This is why its recommended to upgrade the bombardment if you utilize an ARB fridge with the engine off for long periods of time. Its likewise why people run into their stock batteries are dead after a few months of this type of current drain. I've already run mine in my vehicle over a period of 4 days without starting the vehicle once. The fridge ran for 3 full days without issue, and the fourth 24-hour interval I noticed the alarm light came on, pregnant that the battery's voltage dropped below the threshold (which was prepare to "NED" which is medium setting for the ARB units). I and so started the 4runner with no issues, and information technology did not require a jump start or battery charger to practice so. Information technology didn't fifty-fifty seem weak when it started, and because of this (and the fact that I have a jump pack with me at all times, especially if I'm going camping or wheeling), I've ready the unit to the Low setting, meaning that it tin run the bombardment down fifty-fifty lower than before! Of class, I do have an Odyssey battery in my 4runner, equally well every bit all my other vehicles, so I can run this in any of them without worrying too much about a dead bombardment. And then, there you take it! a MAX of 6 amps when its physically running the compressor at a minimum 12 volts, that really isn't much ability consumption at all, especially when you realize that it doesn't constantly run 24/7! My suggestions? Keep your AGM batteries topped off with a battery tender made for AGM batteries, especially if yous're heading out for a long camping calendar week or wheelin' trip. Pack the ARB well and make certain to have information technology full, you'll have less fluctuation in temps if you have it fully packed, equally the stuff in in that location will keep the temps level and regulated. Don't go along opening the fridge! Leave information technology shut as much equally possible to go on the cold air in! Cease thinking that two AGM batteries and a full-on multi-battery charging circuit is necessary to run an ARB refrigerator! Unless you're in the desert for 2 or 3 days without ever starting your vehicle, and you caput out there with no mode to get a jump outset from another vehicle or a jump pack, you'll be merely fine with 1 good AGM battery and the stock charging organisation of the 4 runner! Hard wire your 12VDC plug for the ARB directly to the battery using adept 8AWG wiring at the very least. The smaller the wire gauge, as well every bit the longer the run, the more than resistance the line will have, which equals more than current required at the fridge, and that ways you'll accept more electric current used than necessary. Good wiring will almost eliminate this issue, so do it right and non worry virtually it! __________________ 2011 4 Runner (my daily driver) 1987 Xtra Cab (35's and locked front/rear, the trail toy!) 1985 Supra (430rwhp rail toy!) 2006 Honduh Odyssey (the wife's van)
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04-23-2016, 03:17 PM	#2

Senior Fellow member	I'k e'er surprised these things have as little current draw as they practise. 8awg would be a petty overkill, every bit it is rated to 40 amps. since volt driblet over a 20' or and then run is going to be negligible, 10 or even 12 gauge would suffice, but there is goose egg incorrect with running 8. you're just going to spend more than you lot need to. __________________ 2012 Magnetic Grey Metalic SR5 west/ upgrade pkg (Canada) pretty much bone stock Instagram: ab4runnin
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04-23-2016, 03:38 PM	#3

Senior Fellow member	Well, yes and no, actually. For 20+ anxiety @ 20A, you should run an 8AWG wire if you want to be at 3% or less in voltage driblet. I say 20A because that is what an accented maximum depict on a cig plug would be at (such every bit this type of cig jack HERE). While y'all may but utilise your plug in the back for your fridge, if you ever sell the vehicle, or if yous ever let someone use your vehicle, and they plug something in that draws more than simply the 6A required past your fridge, it would non be ideal for a 12AWG wire. You could become away with 10AWG, but its almost the same toll to only go 8AWG wire, and its easier to just observe the right fuse holder that accepts 8AWG prissy and tight. I use this chart for double-checking load limits on wire every now and and so, it helps to see a quick chart to confirm numbers when wiring up stuff in the vehicle. And so, while you're absolutely correct at 6-10A, 12AWG would be merely fine, if you always plan to do anything more with it, best to just get the 8AWG wiring kits available with the fuse and connectors. __________________ 2011 4 Runner (my daily driver) 1987 Xtra Cab (35's and locked forepart/rear, the trail toy!) 1985 Supra (430rwhp track toy!) 2006 Honduh Odyssey (the wife's van)
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04-23-2016, 04:49 PM	#four

Senior Fellow member	Quote: Originally Posted by flyinhawaiian01 "...Well, yes and no, actually. For twenty+ feet @ 20A, you should run an 8AWG wire if you want to exist at 3% or less in voltage drop...' Hello flyinhawaiian01, I am very impressed with how your theoretical skills and passion to write and pass some of this insight on to others is developing exponentially! Adept task! Rgds, rigtec, thanks __________________ *2012 Limited (in bliz) Black leather interior.* Commercial hvac diagnostics/electrical specialist (Steamfitters Journeyman Local 475)
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04-23-2016, 07:51 PM	#5

Senior Fellow member	Quote: Originally Posted past flyinhawaiian01 Well, yes and no, really. For 20+ anxiety @ 20A, you should run an 8AWG wire if yous want to be at 3% or less in voltage drib. I say 20A because that is what an absolute maximum draw on a cig plug would be at (such every bit this type of cig jack HERE). While you may simply utilise your plug in the back for your fridge, if you ever sell the vehicle, or if you lot ever let someone use your vehicle, and they plug something in that draws more than than just the 6A required by your refrigerator, it would non be ideal for a 12AWG wire. Y'all could become away with 10AWG, only its almost the aforementioned cost to just get 8AWG wire, and its easier to just find the right fuse holder that accepts 8AWG overnice and tight. I apply this nautical chart for double-checking load limits on wire every now and so, information technology helps to come across a quick chart to confirm numbers when wiring upwardly stuff in the So, while y'all're absolutely right at 6-10A, 12AWG would be just fine, if you ever plan to do annihilation more with it, best to just get the 8AWG wiring kits available with the fuse and connectors. aye, and three" anti ballistic tank armor is a heluva lot stronger to apply for skid plates as well. don't use a 40lb sledge hammer where a 16 oz hammer will do the task. equally an electrician, I'm generally not in the habit of wiring things for "what if". you build things for the intended purpose - and to applicable code requirements (for voltage drib we're allowed v%, not just 3%) - considering no one is ever going to plug a 500hp motor into your average 15A household plug. I tin can't speak to specifics in the american electric code, but table 2 in the CEC is a much better resource for checking wire ampacity that your bluesea chart __________________ 2012 Magnetic Grayness Metalic SR5 due west/ upgrade pkg (Canada) pretty much bone stock Instagram: ab4runnin Last edited by Jono.ful; 04-23-2016 at 07:56 PM.
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04-23-2016, 10:01 PM	#7

Senior Member	Quote: Originally Posted by Jono.ful yes, and 3" anti ballistic tank armor is a heluva lot stronger to apply for slip plates as well. don't utilize a 40lb sledge hammer where a 16 oz hammer will exercise the job. as an electrician, I'thou generally non in the habit of wiring things for "what if". you build things for the intended purpose - and to applicable lawmaking requirements (for voltage drib we're allowed 5%, not just iii%) - considering no one is e'er going to plug a 500hp motor into your boilerplate 15A household plug. I can't speak to specifics in the american electrical code, but table 2 in the CEC is a much meliorate resource for checking wire ampacity that your bluesea chart Well, since you're an electrician, you should know that larger cables are required for dc loads, vs. an air conditioning load. This is pretty basic electric theory here. Every bit for your Canadian electrical code, that's based on ac, not dc loads. The marine nautical chart I posted is standard specs for dc loads, and given that you should always overbuild rather than underbuild things, especially electric, the nautical chart is quite perfect for this scenario. Once again, yes, you lot tin can use 12AWG if you similar, it would power the 6A load but fine at 20 feet. All the same, I would rather have a little larger wire to make sure that there are no bug if I plug something in that's a bit more, say a modest air compressor or inverter! Having said that, let'south endeavour something here... Go ahead and summate a five% loss in voltage drop at 12.1V, which is standard resting voltage of an automotive battery. What does your voltage drop to at the plug? Yep, xi.5V, which is too low to power the ARB properly, and results in the unit shutting down because its not seeing plenty voltage. If you turn it to the LO setting for voltage sensing, you can get information technology to ability upward, but your current now shoots up to almost 8A, and that will only deplete the battery that much faster. And then, at a 3% voltage drop with 8AWG wire, at 12.1V, your supply is at ~xi.9V, which means less current draw and a more stable voltage at the fridge. Electrical is not something I skimp on, or exercise the accented minimum. We can contend this all day long, but the fact remains, slightly larger cables, while not absolutely necessary, are not worth the couple of dollars saved by cheapin' out. __________________ 2011 four Runner (my daily commuter) 1987 Xtra Cab (35'south and locked front/rear, the trail toy!) 1985 Supra (430rwhp track toy!) 2006 Honduh Odyssey (the wife'due south van)
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04-23-2016, 10:08 PM	#8

Elite Member	Quote: Originally Posted by flyinhawaiian01 Well, since you're an electrician, you should know that larger cables are required for dc loads, vs. an ac load. This is pretty bones electrical theory hither. Every bit for your Canadian electric code, that'south based on ac, not dc loads. The marine chart I posted is standard specs for dc loads, and given that you should always overbuild rather than underbuild things, peculiarly electrical, the chart is quite perfect for this scenario. Again, yep, you tin use 12AWG if you like, it would power the 6A load merely fine at 20 feet. Still, I would rather have a fiddling larger wire to make sure that there are no problems if I plug something in that's a bit more than, say a small-scale air compressor or inverter! Having said that, permit'southward endeavor something here... Go ahead and calculate a 5% loss in voltage drop at 12.1V, which is standard resting voltage of an automotive battery. What does your voltage drop to at the plug? Yes, 11.5V, which is too low to power the ARB properly, and results in the unit shutting down because its not seeing enough voltage. If you lot turn it to the LO setting for voltage sensing, yous tin get information technology to power up, merely your electric current now shoots up to virtually 8A, and that will just deplete the battery that much faster. And then, at a 3% voltage drop with 8AWG wire, at 12.1V, your supply is at ~11.9V, which ways less current describe and a more stable voltage at the fridge. Electrical is not something I skimp on, or do the accented minimum. We can contend this all day long, but the fact remains, slightly larger cables, while not absolutely necessary, are non worth the couple of dollars saved by cheapin' out. ^^^^Yup. __________________ Here FISHY FISHY FISHY!
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04-23-2016, 10:52 PM	#9

Senior Fellow member	Quote: Originally Posted past flyinhawaiian01 Well, since you're an electrician, you should know that larger cables are required for dc loads, vs. an ac load. This is pretty basic electric theory here. As for your Canadian electric lawmaking, that's based on air-conditioning, not dc loads. The marine chart I posted is standard specs for dc loads, and given that you should always overbuild rather than underbuild things, peculiarly electrical, the chart is quite perfect for this scenario. Once again, aye, you can use 12AWG if you similar, it would power the 6A load just fine at 20 feet. However, I would rather have a little larger wire to make sure that in that location are no issues if I plug something in that'south a fleck more than, say a small air compressor or inverter! Having said that, let'due south try something here... Go alee and calculate a 5% loss in voltage drop at 12.1V, which is standard resting voltage of an automotive battery. What does your voltage drop to at the plug? Yeah, 11.5V, which is too low to power the ARB properly, and results in the unit shutting downwards because its not seeing enough voltage. If yous turn information technology to the LO setting for voltage sensing, you lot can get it to power up, but your current now shoots up to near 8A, and that will just deplete the battery that much faster. And so, at a 3% voltage drib with 8AWG wire, at 12.1V, your supply is at ~xi.9V, which means less current depict and a more stable voltage at the refrigerator. Electrical is not something I skimp on, or do the absolute minimum. Nosotros can argue this all 24-hour interval long, but the fact remains, slightly larger cables, while not absolutely necessary, are not worth the couple of dollars saved by cheapin' out. You heighten adept points, I'm not disputing that. And you are certainly right, DC loads crave different calculations for some equipment in some circumstances. Do me a favour though, go out and pull the 12v in the dorsum of your truck and tell me what estimate wire is run to it. Betcha your truck information technology'south not 8awg, and information technology runs your fridge just fine. Under certain circumstances, yep that arb unit of measurement tin can pull more than 6 amps, and if you want to build your rig for admittedly every eventuality, that's your prerogative. In the long run, you admittedly will spend more than you need to to accomplish the job. And yes, that corporeality will likely be tens or peradventure hundreds, but not likely thousands. This is simply an academic give-and-take. You can build your truck how you lot see fit, and I will practise the same __________________ 2012 Magnetic Grey Metalic SR5 w/ upgrade pkg (Canada) pretty much bone stock Instagram: ab4runnin
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04-25-2016, 10:55 AM	#thirteen

Senior Member	I use this model: Keyline Charger Then far it works perfectly for all my agm batteries. I throw each vehicle on the charger every one time in a while, moreso the '87 truck since I rarely drive the garage queen. Doesn't take much to charge them up either. I usually throw a bombardment on the charger on a fri afternoon, and earlier the wife leaves for piece of work on Monday, I pull information technology off. That's usually skilful for a month or two before I feel the need to do it again. Been doing this with all of my agm batteries for the past 16 years, I finally had my last Optima xanthous top die on me about 8 months ago, that was the first yellow top I bought back in 2000, so I got more than my coin's worth out of that bombardment! __________________ 2011 four Runner (my daily driver) 1987 Xtra Cab (35'southward and locked front/rear, the trail toy!) 1985 Supra (430rwhp track toy!) 2006 Honduh Odyssey (the wife's van)
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04-25-2016, 02:19 PM	#14

Banned	i don't sympathize why anyone would go through the attempt for this merely use 12ga. it makes sense for a manufacturer to non overbuild things because only cents per vehicle adds upward to real numbers, but for a single possessor doing a vehicle mod doing the bare minimum doesn't make sense when just a few more bucks buys you flexibility
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